Manorbier
is a village in the county of Pembrokeshire south west Wales. Located
west of the town of Tenby and south east of Pembroke, Manorbier was
once famously described as "the
pleasantest
place in Wales". Having a picturesque beach and a
beautiful medieval castle it would be difficult to argue with Giraldus
Cambrensis, archdeacon of Brecon and the renowned chronicler of his
times, especially as "Gerald" was born in Manorbier (in
1146) and was the most famous Welsh travel writer for a thousand years!
The village centre
The journey to Manorbier takes you through Pembrokeshire’s beautiful
countryside, with colourful hedgerows and winding country lanes. Once
in the village you will find a medieval castle, a Norman church, a pub,
a post office cum general store, a garage and a cafe/ tea rooms. Yes
....its not the commercial capital of Pembrokeshire but your not here
for the shopping!
Although
there is only one pub in the village, The Castle Inn provides a warm
and friendly welcome to all, and serves appetising meals ..or just have
a pint of beer and a ploughman's lunch.
Attractions
Manorbier Castle
The castle is by far one of Manorbier’s most appealing and fascinating
attractions. A 12th century medieval
building, it perches on the hill
top overlooking the bay. Such is its magnificence that it will make you
feel as though you have been taken back to the 12th century yourself.
However, where once livestock would roam and crops would grow, today
the only things growing in the ground below the castle are bracken and
marshes. The castle comprises of many outer buildings: a masonry, chapel,
gatehouse and roundtower.
Manorbier Castle is most famous for being the birth place of the
above mentioned scholar, cleric, traveller, crusader and
medieval politician, Gerald of Wales. Gerald was the son of William de
Barri, a Norman lord, and Angharad, the daughter of the Norman, Gerald
de Windsor, and the famous Welsh princess, Nest.
The castle structure is as interesting as its history, as unlike most
castles of the time, it is almost perfectly rectangular. The castle and
its surrounding grounds are tucked into a narrow valley between two streams
which flow to Manorbier Bay. These streams may have been the castle’s
main water supply at one time.
The inner ward is a striking and beautiful place itself. Walking into
it via the gatehouse, you are immediately greeted by the colourful flowers
and greenery. All this is surrounded and protected by the brown stone
of the castle walls. The southern section, just to your left in the inner
ward, has been heavily restored during the centuries. The last restoration
is believed to have been undertaken during the 19th century.
The great hall, built in the 1140s, today remains the “oldest
stone building surviving at any castle in west Wales”.
It is not just a remarkable building in the way its stone still stands
intact but it is also an interesting room to visit in the castle. Dotted
around the castle, sections of the 12th century wall-painting have survived
and provide us with a fascinating insight into medieval artwork.
Surprisingly, the castle only ever saw two assaults and those being
minor; the first was in 1327 when Richard de Barri invaded Manorbier
to claim the castle which was lawfully his and the latter in 1645, when
during the English Civil War, Oliver Cromwell’s Roundheads seized
and slighted the castle.
St James Church
Perched on the opposite side of the Shute Valley from Manorbier
castle is St. James Church,
a 12th-century Norman church and the parish church of Manorbier.
As with many Welsh churches St James' church has a double knave , but
St James' has the addition of a striking crenellated tower. I presume
the church has recently been the subject of renovation works as the limewashed
tower is a sure sign that Cadw,
the Welsh heritage organisation, has been involved. ("yes we will
pay for improvements to your church ...but you must paint it white".
Saint James' Church is a Grade I listed building as one of the most
interesting medieval churches in South West Wales, retaining a valuable
series of stone vaults and furnishings.
Manorbier Beach
Manorbier’s second most popular attraction is its
delightful beach. Sheltered by two cliffs on either side of
its wide
golden sands, the beach is also overlooked by the castle and the 12th
century Norman church. It is a sandy beach with pebbles along the banks.
Children will love playing in the rock pools spotting starfish
and crabs, whilst parents laze on the sand beside the shore! If
you are feeling brave enough to test the warm Welsh waters don't
forget your surf board. But you won't be alone as Manorbier beach can
be very popular with surfers during the summer months.
Pembrokeshire Coastal Path
If you need
a break away from the sand and sea, you can take a delightful walk along
the cliff tops, which offer excellent views of not just the beach,
but also the castle, church and Pembrokeshire countryside. Indeed the
Pembrokeshire Coastal Path cuts through Manorbier on its way eastward
to Tenby, or winding westward along the scenic route to the secluded
Swanlake Bay.
The King’s Quoit
Close to Manorbier alongside the coastal path
you will find The King’s
Quoit, a striking stone cromlech (a prehistoric megalithic structure),
which dates from around 3000BC. It is a beautiful spot to enjoy a picnic
during the summer months.
Dovecote
The village is home to a well-preserved late mediaeval dovecote
of a West Country type.
History
The main source of the history of Manorbier lies in its castle. As we
know, it was the birthplace of Gerald of Wales, a medieval clergyman
who battled to become Archbishop of St David’s and sadly failed.
Born in 1146 it is through Gerald that we know most of the history of
the village ...and indeed the medieval history of Wales. Manorbier was
also a popular haunt of the Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw and
author Virginia Woolf.
St James’s Church stands to the right above the beach, upon the
opposite ridge top to the castle. Built during the Norman times, it was
active during the years the castle was thriving. These days it remains
a fantastic historic monument in the heart of Manorbier.
Accommodation and Services
There is only one small hotel in Manorbier, owing to the size
of the village, but many more hotels
close by in this beautiful part of south Pembrokeshire. For
self-catering facilities there is a good selection of holiday
cottages in this area of
Pembrokeshire as well as in Manorbier itself.
There is also a youth hostel on the eastern side
of the village along the Coast Path, situated halfway
towards nearby Lydstep. It provides a comfortable night for tourists!
For parking facilities
there is the beach car park operated by the Pembrokeshire Coast
National Park, with easy access to the sands.
It may have taken almost a millenium for the people of Wales
to agree with Gerald of Wales' glowing opinion of Manorbier,
but better late than never, and in 1997 Manorbier was designated
as a conservation area by the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park
thus protecting its natural beauty and heritage for, hopefully,
another thousand years!.