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Manorbier is a village in the county of Pembrokeshire south west Wales. Located west of the town of Tenby and south east of Pembroke, Manorbier was once famously described as "the Manorbierpleasantest place in Wales". Having a picturesque beach and a beautiful medieval castle it would be difficult to argue with Giraldus Cambrensis, archdeacon of Brecon and the renowned chronicler of his times, especially as "Gerald" was born in Manorbier (in 1146) and was the most famous Welsh travel writer for a thousand years!

The village centre

The journey to Manorbier takes you through Pembrokeshire’s beautiful countryside, with colourful hedgerows and winding country lanes. Once in the village you will find a medieval castle, a Norman church, a pub, a post office cum general store, a garage and a cafe/ tea rooms. Yes ....its not the commercial capital of Pembrokeshire but your not here for the shopping!
Although there is only one pub in the village, The Castle Inn provides a warm and friendly welcome to all, and serves appetising meals ..or just have a pint of beer and a ploughman's lunch.

Attractions

Manorbier Castle

The castle is by far one of Manorbier’s most appealing and fascinating attractions. A 12th century medieval Manorbier Castlebuilding, it perches on the hill top overlooking the bay. Such is its magnificence that it will make you feel as though you have been taken back to the 12th century yourself. However, where once livestock would roam and crops would grow, today the only things growing in the ground below the castle are bracken and marshes. The castle comprises of many outer buildings: a masonry, chapel, gatehouse and roundtower.

Manorbier Castle is most famous for being the birth place of the above mentioned scholar, cleric, traveller,  crusader and medieval politician, Gerald of Wales. Gerald was the son of William de Barri, a Norman lord, and Angharad, the daughter of the Norman, Gerald de Windsor, and the famous Welsh princess, Nest.

The castle structure is as interesting as its history, as unlike most castles of the time, it is almost perfectly rectangular. The castle and its surrounding grounds are tucked into a narrow valley between two streams which flow to Manorbier Bay. These streams may have been the castle’s main water supply at one time.
The inner ward is a striking and beautiful place itself. Walking into it via the gatehouse, you are immediately greeted by the colourful flowers and greenery. All this is surrounded and protected by the brown stone of the castle walls. The southern section, just to your left in the inner ward, has been heavily restored during the centuries. The last restoration is believed to have been undertaken during the 19th century.

A closer view of Manorbier CastleThe great hall, built in the 1140s, today remains the “oldest stone building surviving at any castle in west Wales”. It is not just a remarkable building in the way its stone still stands intact but it is also an interesting room to visit in the castle. Dotted around the castle, sections of the 12th century wall-painting have survived and provide us with a fascinating insight into medieval artwork.

Surprisingly, the castle only ever saw two assaults and those being minor; the first was in 1327 when Richard de Barri invaded Manorbier to claim the castle which was lawfully his and the latter in 1645, when during the English Civil War, Oliver Cromwell’s Roundheads seized and slighted the castle.

St James Church

 Perched on the opposite side of the Shute Valley from Manorbier castle is St. James Church, a 12th-century Norman  church and the parish church of Manorbier. As with many Welsh churches St James' church has a double knave , but St James' has the addition of a striking crenellated tower. I presume the church has recently been the subject of renovation works as the limewashed tower is a sure sign that Cadw, the Welsh heritage organisation,  has been involved. ("yes we will pay for improvements to your church ...but you must paint it white". Saint James' Church is a Grade I listed building as one of the most interesting medieval churches in South West Wales, retaining a valuable series of stone vaults and furnishings.

Manorbier Beach

Manorbier’s second most popular attraction is its delightful beach. Sheltered by two cliffs on either side of Manorbier Bayits wide golden sands, the beach is also overlooked by the castle and the 12th century Norman church. It is a sandy beach with pebbles along the banks. Children will love playing in the rock pools spotting starfish and crabs, whilst parents laze on the sand beside the shore!  If you are feeling brave enough to test the warm Welsh waters don't forget your surf board. But you won't be alone as Manorbier beach can be very popular with surfers during the summer months.

Pembrokeshire Coastal Path

If you need a break away from the sand and sea, you can take a delightful walk along the cliff tops, which offer excellent views of not just the beach, but also the castle, church and Pembrokeshire countryside. Indeed the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path cuts through Manorbier on its way eastward to Tenby, or winding westward along the scenic route to the secluded Swanlake Bay.

The King’s Quoit

Close to Manorbier alongside the coastal path you will find The King’s Quoit, a striking stone cromlech (a prehistoric megalithic structure), which dates from around 3000BC. It is a beautiful spot to enjoy a picnic during the summer months.

Pembroke Coastal Path at it passes through Manorbier BayDovecote

The village is home to a well-preserved late mediaeval dovecote of a West Country type.

History

The main source of the history of Manorbier lies in its castle. As we know, it was the birthplace of Gerald of Wales, a medieval clergyman who battled to become Archbishop of St David’s and sadly failed. Born in 1146 it is through Gerald that we know most of the history of the village ...and indeed the medieval history of Wales. Manorbier was also a popular haunt of the Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw and author Virginia Woolf.

St James’s Church stands to the right above the beach, upon the opposite ridge top to the castle. Built during the Norman times, it was active during the years the castle was thriving. These days it remains a fantastic historic monument in the heart of Manorbier.

Accommodation and Services

There is only one small hotel in Manorbier, owing to the size of the village, but many more hotels close by in this beautiful part of south Pembrokeshire. For self-catering facilities there is a good selection of holiday cottages in this area of Pembrokeshire as well as in Manorbier itself.

There is also a youth hostel on the eastern side of the village along the Coast Path, situated halfway towards nearby Lydstep. It provides a comfortable night for tourists!

For parking facilities there is the beach car park operated by the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, with easy access to the sands.

It may have taken almost a millenium for the people of Wales to agree with Gerald of Wales' glowing  opinion of Manorbier, but better late than never, and in 1997 Manorbier was designated as a conservation area by the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park thus protecting its natural beauty and heritage for, hopefully, another thousand years!.

 

Please -- click on the pictures -- for enlarged pictures of Manorbier, Pembrokeshire, West Wales UK.
© All pictures and text copyright Bernard Wellings

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